Living an incredibly sustainable lifestyle, Hawaiian people could very effectively use almost all parts of the sea urchins they harvested. The yellow gonads of the urchin, called elelo (directly translated to "tongue" because of their tongue-shaped gonads), are considered the 'meat' of the urchin. Elelo is delicious to eat on its own raw, and with other foods. Hawaiians also used the fluids inside the urchin, called kai, to make a unique sauce that could be eaten with other foods (Titcomb 1978). Even the test and spines of the urchin may have had a variety of uses, ranging from food flavoring to writing implements.
In the Hawaiian language, sea urchins are distinguished in four main categories: wana, ʻina, hāʻukeʻuke, and hāwaʻe (Titcomb 1978). These categories are generally based on appearance and flavor, which has natural implications for what urchins of these various categories were commonly known and used for.
Hawaiians are particularly interested in the elelo of wana, which is most commonly eaten raw, but can also be cooked or sun-dried. It is considered the most delicious urchin by far (Titcomb 1978). Wana could not be harvested bare-handed because the spines are sharp and poisonous, so they are harvested with sticks and handled via the under side, which has shorter, duller spikes. Although the elelo is the star of the show, the kai could also be eaten. Elelo and kai from wana could be combined to make a salty relish that can be eaten with poi or sweet potatoes (Titcomb 1978).
Wana is also a general term for sea urchins (Hoover 2006).
Echinothrix diadema
ʻIna is the most populous category of sea urchin found in Hawaiʻi, and can be handled with bare hands. After harvesting, the tests from these urchins could be used to make a unique salty sauce called kai ʻina by soaking the tests in water for several hours, and then draining the water out. Hawaiians traditionally enjoy this sauce with raw fish (Titcomb 1978).
There is an old Hawaiian proverb, "Pala ka hala, momona ka hāʻukeʻuke," meaning "when the pandanus fruit ripens, the sea urchin is fat." This proverb teaches that hā'uke'uke are seasonal, and are best harvested when hala fruit is abundant in the fall.
A unique tool, Hawaiians also used the spines of hāʻukeʻuke ʻulaʻula as writing implements (Titcomb 1978).
These urchins are considered useless for food, though hāwaʻe maoli are marginally preferred over other hāwaʻe (Titcomb 1978). By extension (and mildly entertainingly), the term hāwaʻe is also used colloquially to describe a useless person (Hoover 2006).
"gray-headed hāwa'e"
Pseudoboletia indiana
Brissus latecarinatus
Hoover, J.P. (2006) Hawaiʻi's Sea Creatures: A Guide to Hawaiʻi's Marine Invertebrates, Revised Edition. Mutual Publishing.
Titcomb, M. (1978) "Native Use of Marine Invertebrates in Old Hawaii". Pacific Science. https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/5094065.pdf.